The thrill of ice climbing in the Drakensberg

The Drakensberg offers a range of activities and possibly best for the adrenalin seekers is the adventure of ice climbing.

Many Drakensberg visitors aren’t aware that Giants Castle offers world-class ice climbing, with pure ice and mixed routes, from beginner to multi-pitch WI6+ routes. But, it’s a tough walk-in!

Climbers must work for the reward; they must hike 15km and ascend 1,500m to the top of Giants Pass. Camping at the top of the pass allows for various climbing opportunities.

Drakensberg winters change from year to year and there isn’t always ice. But when conditions are favourable July and/or August generally provide the perfect time for ice climbing.

The nature of this sport implies very cold conditions, well below freezing at night, and the top of Giants can be extremely windy for days. A group out for an adventure recently had tents stripped by the gale-force winds so climbers must be prepared.

Safety first

Safety should always be paramount in the Drakensberg mountains. Hikers are encouraged to walk in groups, and remote locations with difficult access make planning essential. Once on top of the escarpment, there is no shelter other than that carried along.

Climbing frozen waterfalls and landscapes is essentially undertaken privately and while anyone can participate, there are currently scheduled tours offered in the region.

Highly specialised equipment is required and should include: ice tools, crampons, ropes and protection (gear used to build anchors and place routes to support the rope system protecting the climber).

Interested members are encouraged to contact the MCSA KZN (Mountain Club of South Africa–KZN Chapter) to find out more.

Members of the Mountain Club coordinate many activities including ice climbing and there is access to gear.

Recently South Africa was host to world-renowned Canadian Ice Climber, Will Gadd in July/August 2023.

Invited, almost anecdotally, by Tim Larsen of the MCSA (Mountain Club South Africa), he experienced some of the best ice climbing in Drakensberg and Lesotho, with a small group of local climbers, and even opened a number of previously unclimbed routes.

A Canadian climber is stoked!

Will Gadd’s social media posts; “South African Ice, August 2023! Who knew, but South Africa and Lesotho have world-class ice and mixed climbing, amazing and wild areas!

“When @timothyvslarsen invited me over I wasn’t honestly expecting much, but I was very wrong: The Drakensberg (Dragon Mountains, Zulu:uKhahlamba, Sotho: Maloti) are an absolutely incredible place to ice climb! The two best routes of the four we put up would be classics anywhere in the world: Wind, Ice and Dragons, 120M WI6 M8, three pitches of stunningly wild mixed sports action, and NikNak Ice Crack, M9, a 20M overhanging crack dripping with just enough pure crystal ice to swing into, not a dry tool placement on the whole line!

“If either of these routes were in North America or the Alps they would be instant classics and absolutely mobbed with stoked climbers, so good! I’m just ridiculously stoked to have had the opportunity to climb new and old lines with great people and learn a little about two really varied and constantly engaging countries.

“A huge thanks to Tim, Colin, Lloyd, Franco, Sakhile, Mlayo and Garreth for sharing their amazing countries and mountain worlds! It was a full trip, from 150KMH winds shredding our tents to baboons checking out the ice climbs to climbing some of the most magical lines ever, plus my cloudy perceptions of South Africa and Lesotho getting re-arranged continually.

“It just all added up to one of the fullest experiences of my climbing career and life, and again I’m very grateful to everyone who shared their worlds with grace and honesty.”

• This article was Lloyd Anderson was first published in The Drakensberg Magazine 2023. Photographs by Garreth Bird